The morning's roundup of sights and observations at and around the 2008 Olympic equestrian events: The transport system.
Inter-venue shuttle buses are segregated by accreditation type, meaning that thou shalt not share a ride with an athlete or a venue worker. Environmentalists would shed more than one tear at seeing full-size motorcoaches idling empty, doors open and A/C blasting, waiting for passengers while would-be riders stand sweating, waiting for their buses -- both going to the same place. Begging, cajoling, and arguing with the security people have no effect.
The Dutch party room. A lounge in one of the official host hotels has been commandeered by the Dutch team, which has rented the space for the duration of the Games. Orange-accented posters of Dutch riders decorate the walls, thereby adding even more lurid contrast to the already over-the-top room, which is decorated with pink and purple upholstered chairs and a truly horrid carpet with hot pink and purple circles and swirls.
Out front is a large Heineken display, and I wonder what it looks like with a few (or more) beers under one's belt. Judging by the fact that the Dutch are nowhere to be found most mornings, my guess is that the effect can be pretty overwhelming. And I'm glad I'm on the twelfth floor of the hotel because the disco music kept several other journalists awake who were situated on lower floors.
When the crowds are away, the riders will play. The victorious German dressage team and its supporters gathered on the apron outside the main arena Thursday night around midnight, after the medals ceremony. There was Isabell Werth, walking over to the party with an official, still in her sweaty white breeches and show shirt. Walk inside the main building and there were the judges, grabbing a snack in the cafeteria at 12:45 a.m. The party went on until about 3:00 a.m., I'm told.
Want to cross the street? Take the "subway." Barriers prevent pedestrians in Hong Kong from crossing at street level (except for when this jogger vaulted a railing and crossed, half-expecting the police to descend). Instead, you're supposed to descend a flight of stairs (or a ramp, for cyclists) and pass through a tunnel under the street (the "subway"), coming up at the other end. The system is handy because you don't have to worry about traffic lights, but it can be tricky if you are directionally challenged, as I am. More than once I have emerged from a subway only to find myself proceeding in the opposite direction from the one I intended, thanks in part to the stairways that double back on themselves.
Interesting local cuisine. I'm reminded of the line by the comedian (I can't remember who it was) who said something along the lines of, "In China, they don't call it Chinese food; they just call it food." The nearby mega-shopping mall, New Town Plaza, has a Starbucks and a Shakey's Pizza; but the streetside establishments are just...food, many with outside floor-to-ceiling tanks housing all manner of sea creatures. Some of the dishes are relatively familiar to one who's visited lots of Chinese restaurants in the U.S., but others are quite a bit more exotic.
A daily special, spotted yesterday on a blackboard: fried spaghetti with ox tongue and tomato. Um, I think I'll pass. Ditto for the carp heads and the pigs' intestines. But my fried prawns in spicy salt were delicious and clear-your-sinuses spicy, served in heaps of panko crumbs dotted with little slices of red peppers. Shoppers' paradise. That mega-mall I mentioned? When I visited, it was thronged with visitors, some of whom lined the first-floor railing watching Olympic sports on a giant screen in the mall's huge open atrium. Equal numbers were dining in the many eateries, which range from the aforementioned Starbucks to every Asian specialty.
And then it was on to six (or was it seven?) floors of shopping, plus a movie theater. Each floor has a theme: electronics, sporting goods and apparel, cosmetics, etc. And each is staffed by young female customer-service guides attired in white newsboys' caps, white knickers, and white knee-high go-go boots.
The glasses. I don't know if contact lenses are popular here among the vision-impaired, but many young Chinese people sport glasses. The current fashion must be thick, black, narrow, rectangular "geek look" frames, for that's all I see on both guys and girls, except for a few girls who choose white frames instead of black. Not a flattering look in either color.